Sunday, March 7, 2010

Die, Yellow Fizzie Beer - Long Live Homegrown Resistance


Okay, maybe I am getting a little carried away about something as simple as beer.

It's just that, I can't help it. I used to work for Anheuser-Busch, who was bought by a foreign company (Inbev), and they were not very nice to AB employees. A lot of people think they're drinking American when they crack open a Coors or Miller but guess what? SABMiller stands for South African Breweries (they acquired Miller in 2002) and although the 2008 anti-trust regulators approved Miller Coors as a joint venture between SAB Miller and Molson Coors, Molson is Canadian. They have some headquarters on American soil, breweries that still employ people in this country, but if there is any question over who is getting rich off red, white and blue happy hours, summer picnics on the lake, and weekends, let me introduce you to a famous fictional, and non-fictional character known as the little guy.

The little guy, who gets the proverbial **** end of the deal when corporations monopolize. The little guy, who works his whole life to support his family while the Gordon Gekkos of the world are slow to get their comeuppance. The little guy, who has optimism, the right to assemble peacefully, and a history of changing things from the underground with good recipes for brew.

That recipe is one part anti-establishment, one part non-conformism, one part authentic craftsmanship, with roots in autonomous ingenuity, and 100% spirit.

Add a few tattoos, irreverent visionaries, a nothing-to-lose attitude, and quality ingredients and you have a revolutionary movement against yellow fizzie beer with no taste, no fair distribution of wealth, and more importantly, no heart.

I'm getting carried away again. And I DO NOT wish to undermine the work of people who built family companies, or those in the heartland (all over our land) who still work for a living making yellow fizzie beer. Nothing wrong with sending your kid to college this way.

But gee whiz, I want the fair share to circulate where it ought to go.

I was the dorky kid in college who had to subdue my enthusiasm when the professor had us watch Tom Joad's speech. (But I have a cool side too, and I can recite Otter's speech from Animal House word for word and I cheer the demise of Neidermeyer). And I understand the way the market, the world, and even temptation work.

So when I see the success of microbrewers, when their popularity has an international reach and the little guys get a piece of the pie, I see irony, justice, and victory in a 12 ounce bottle of beer. I taste it in the heavily-hopped, attention to detail smoothness, and I see it in the deep, multi-dimensional, never transparent amber color, you know, the hue and agricultural staple that are mentioned in America the Beautiful.

But that's just me. Throw the empty Coors Light cans at me now.

And I'll tell you that San Diego was named Beer Capital of the U.S.A because we have the most (award-winning) breweries here, a concentration of breweries unknown anywhere else nationally. Oh, and we've also gotten nods from Food & Wine magazine for said concentration.

Last night I went to a place called Small Bar, where there were more microbrews on tap than I could count. And NO YELLOW FIZZIE BEER. There are lots of these bars and restaurants in my city now, they open their doors to everyone (that's their style), but, as I read in San Diego magazine, decline the reps from the foreign owned beer companies.

Where there is the little guy fighting the system, you'll find me. Drinking it in. And eating, too of course - these bars have elevated bar food, scratch cooking (homemade pickles deep fried, mac and cheese with Guinness! street tacos, oh my...), but that is another blog.

Where is Tom Joad now? He's in San Diego, eating fish tacos and sipping the hoppy fruits of his labor in the warm sun that, for now, shines in exactly the right place.

Image from southernliving.com Beer Glossary


Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Happy Birthday Dad!

My Dad is 60-something today, and he's just the best Dad. That's all there is to it.

Best Dad Top 10:
1) When it was raining, as a kid Dad always took me to see the monster waves or around the neighborhood to splash in puddles. I do these things still today.
2) He fills my car up with gas whenever he drives it, or riding with me.
3) He tells me I'm an awesome cook (making him beef enchiladas tonight, his favorite).
4) Thirty or so years later, he's yet to lose his patience when I repeatedly fail to comprehend the infield fly rule.
5) He dislikes garlic, coconut and cilantro, but I love him anyway.
6) He had some wicked cool jobs before he met my Mother, but they're classified.
7) He's never late for a baseball, soccer, or football game.
8) On my wedding day, he opened up my bredroom door, woke me up for the last time, and shouted "GAME DAY! GET UP!"
9) He treats my Mom like a queen, even though she routinely, accidentally, bleaches his favorite clothes.
10) He's a wonderful Dad, but an even better Grandfather.


Monday, March 1, 2010

That Steak Dinner...


That steak dinner, I knew he wanted to marry me. He didn't say it, but he threw a fit when I asked to take my teriyaki steak (the only time in my life I think I ordered a teriyaki steak) to go, and it had already been discarded in the restaurant kitchen.

He wanted to get me what I wanted. He didn't like seeing me disappointed. He wanted to marry me.

Maybe I was taking a little bit of a rational leap after three months of dating, but sitting across from a table from him Friday night after Friday night, we had so much to talk about that our Friday nights continued until the sun came up Saturday morning. And this continued after we got off work on Saturday, and when classes were over during the week...

We ate dinner in so many places - seafood, steak houses, salad buffets, dive bars - but I remember that teriyaki steak because, damn it, me getting my doggy bag was a matter of honor for the man who would become my husband.

Two weeks later, lounging in the pool during a dry summer with extraordinarily colorful sunsets, he told me..."I can see myself married to you."

I re-create that steak dinner at home now all the time. Our offspring, they looooove it.

They have absolutely no idea.

FLANK STEAK WITH A KIND OF TERIYAKI MARINADE
Serves 2, of course. (But it doubles, even triples well if you wake up one day and find yourself surrounded by hungry little people calling you Mom & Dad).

(1) 2 lb. flank steak
1/2 cup Worcestshire sauce
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp. honey
1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
a few shakes Tabasco sauce
cracked black pepper
optional: red pepper flakes

Marinate the steak in fridge at least three hours. Let steak come to room temp for one hour before grilling.
Drain off marinade, put in a saucepan over medium-low heat.
Grill steak until it reaches 145 degrees.
Let rest for 20 minutes, if you can stand it.
When sauce is reduced by half, strain through a sieve into a gravy boat.
Serve steak with sauce.

Image from foodnetwork.com.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Carne Asada - Iconic Taco Shop Classic (#3)

Today, I entered the Foodista Food Blog Contest, and I did not enter this recipe because the text of the original post was too long. Nevertheless, this carne asada post got more hits on my old blog than any other.

People just love taco shops and carne asada, the search results do not lie. So I am posting it again, even though I just posted carne asada fries the other day. Here is how to marinate, and make your own.
SECOND POST ON CARNE ASADA
Posted January 5, 2009

I got a comment asking for clarification on my carne asada recipe. Firstly, please forgive me for any confusion. I think I was just so excited over the success of making my own carne asada that I went too fast! Timeless recipes do that to me. The correction/clarification is in all caps below.

Here we go...my version of a Mexi-Cal classic;

CARNE ASADA
for marinade:
juice of one orange
juice of one lime
juice of one lemon
1/2 cup soy sauce
1-2 tbsp. cumin
1 tbsp. ground coriander
* 2 TBSP. CHILI POWDER *
2 tbsp. dried Mexican oregano
one bunch chopped fresh cilantro
one chopped yellow onion
1/2 cup honey
what I will add next time: tomato paste

2 lbs. flap steak

Let steak marinade overnight, rotate the meat within the marinade a few times to make sure flavor gets integrated. Grill about five minutes per side.
####

The reader who asked me to clarify on the chili pepper/chili powder ingredient is from behind what they called the "Redwood Curtain." I am guessing this means Northern California (NorCal). Thank you for reading, for sharing your Roberto's story with me, and for giving me the answer to this weekend's Sunday afternoon riddle (what to cook?). I had been wondering about that. And if it is NorCal I'm thinking, I want you to know I envy your location as well. Nine years ago I drove out of the Redwoods and saw/smelled the ocean intermingling with the forest, and it was an experience I will live my whole life and never forget. That and seeing wild blackberry bushes and wildflowers thriving along the two-lane highway, or finding sea glass aplenty on a beach in Mendocino.

Those provocations towards the senses make life worthwhile.

ORIGINAL POST
Posted September 11, 2008

Doesn't everyone eat Carne Asada burritos at 2:00 a.m.?

"When we travel to California, we make sure we go to Roberto's," I hear out-of-towners say. Roberto's, Royberto's Aliberto's, and Mariscos are all euphemisms for the prototypical western United States taco shop where Mexican fast food reigns among other fast food.

Since I was high school – we had off campus lunches – the taco shop to me has been a sure thing, a routine destination, and an icon of youth and southwestern culture. My college campus had taco shops, because trips and purchases there cure pre-exam jitters, post-exam hunger, hangovers and deliciously filled the need of between class re-fueling.

In the days before children, when I worked (I should say, got paid to work) and had strict one hour lunch breaks, the taco shop read my urgency and hunger, and complied every time. When I began this mommy thing, and my first child had to be driven around at night to get to sleep, the taco shop once again became a destination, as many taco shops are open 24/7. A new Mommy with a good memory, I would sit in my Jetta, baby in the back, watching singles leaving the bars or parties to reunite at the taco shop in the wee hours. It was cute. Or it wasn't pretty. But it has never changed.

Taco shop food comes wrapped in a waxy yellow paper or styrofoam box. The goodies found within are representative of the many levels of our lives, now that I think and write about it. Tortillas filled with cheesy, gooey, meaty, sour cream and salsa, or the enticing crunch from a rolled taco - I'll never stop eating this food. These days, I haul taco shop food to play dates, the park, soccer and baseball tournaments.

Or polish off the leftovers while everyone sleeps. ("Mom, what happened to my burrito?")

The taco shop aroma, it's just the familiar scent of home - grilled, spiced meat intermingling with salty sea air, smoke from a brush fire, or eucalyptus trees. It makes even the worst day better.

Every city in the United States has a McDonald's, but taco shops in the southwest, I think, must be like delis in New York or Cracker Barrels in the Midwest. Rustic regional food - it's just comforting to know there's one on almost every corner.

When they closed down the last Bob's Big Boy in San Diego, the first taco shop I ever saw went up in its place, the smoke emanating from the roof somewhere. Plastic tables sat out front, nailed to the ground. It was a newly built establishment, this eatery that uprooted Bob (
another blog), but it looked like it had been there for years. I gave it a shot. One taste, and I traded burgers for burritos.

The taco shop era of my life began. From junior high on, I fell in love with cilantro, easily afforded quesadillas, and only recently, discovered carne asada fries. Carne asada fries - strips of lean meat marinated in spices (these vary), placed atop French fries. That alone make this meat-and-potato girl curl my toes in anticipation, but the toppings make this dish; first, you've got the fries, then the grilled and chopped meat, then shredded cheddar and Monterey Jack cheese, sour cream, guacamole, cilantro, and salsa fresca. Potato nachos if you will, a meal that all three of my kids agree on. For pure indulgence, I get the California burrito - carne asada fries wrapped inside a tortilla with pico de gallo.

Many taco shops have up to 20 combination plates; enchiladas, tamales, rolled tacos, open tacos, with rice and beans. I usually get stuck deciding between rolled tacos - tortillas wrapped around shredded beef or chicken then fried - or chicken enchiladas. When I can't decide on that, I'll move over to the burrito menu and vacillate between macahaca, chorizo, pollo asada, or fajita. My husband never deters from his standard carne asada burrito. Everyone has a favorite.

In my experience in the food industry, I have met some masterful Mexican chefs who immigrated from south of the border. The best taco shops are backed by guys like them.

And I believe good food should be accessible to everyone, not just through a drive-up window.

"Macario, I need to know how to make the white sauce for fish tacos!"
"Does the chef share his ceviche recipe?"
"How did your abuela make it?"
"You're family is from Mazatlan? No kidding? Tell me about the beans!"
"Auntie, let's talk menudo while the kids are swimming."

When it's a recipe I want, I know how to talk to people. With some luck and their spirit of generosity, I now treasure my archives of fifty plus original Mexican recipes from artistic, ritualistic, innovative chefs with roots in Mexico who displayed - in the kitchens where I worked - instinct, good ingredient choices, and common sense: the food must taste good. Period.

I see these philosophies demonstrated every time I drive by a taco shop, the drive-thru packed, the service lines deep. Sometimes, I just don't want to wait in one of those lines. Sometimes - Quetzalcoatl forbid - traditional recipes are tinkered with and flavors thrown off.

So I made up my own. Macario, Mr. Gutierrez, and Aunt Rose Marie would be proud of me.

Here is my recipe for carne asada. I am reluctant to tell you that I used soy sauce which is probably not an original ingredient. However, I ran this by a friend of mine whose family knows carne asada and she seemed familiar with this addition. I need to do some more research on carne asada before I perfect this recipe, get it more authentic, but this was a good start. I grilled the carne asada last night before we went to Alex's ball game, and when we got home, I served salsa, guacamole, sour cream and corn tortillas with it. Alex finished whatever was left on his sister's plates (atta boy).

The meat is lean, the flavor is taco shop worthy, it's the perfect cure for Mexican food jonesing, little bodies enduring growth spurts, and family re-grouping after each one of us goes in a different direction during the day.

CARNE ASADA
for marinade:
juice of one orange
juice of one lime
juice of one lemon
1/2 cup soy sauce
1-2 tbsp. cumin
1 tbsp. ground coriander
2 tbsp. chili pepper
2 tbsp. dried Mexican oregano
one bunch chopped fresh cilantro
one chopped yellow onion
1/2 cup honey
what I will add next time: tomato paste
2 lbs. flap steak
Let steak marinade overnight, rotate the meat within the marinade a few times to make sure flavor gets integrated. Grill about five minutes per side.

FRESH SALSA
4 tomatoes, diced fine
1/2 white onion, diced fine
tomato paste (little bit)
garlic puree (you can find this in the produce section, or puree a few peeled cloves in a mini-chop processor)
lime juice
serrano pepper, diced fine (remove seeds - handle and discard carefully)
jalapeno pepper, diced fine (remove seeds - handle and discard carefully)
white pepper
coarse grain salt
chopped fresh cilantro

I haven't listed many measurements here because salsa is so subjective. Start out with small amounts of ingredients (except for those indicated with a specific amount), and add the other ingredients from there to your liking. For example, if the lime is particularly juicy, you needn't squeeze it dry. If the lime is small, squeeze until the last drop is released from the fruit, and add the zest, if you like. Trust yourself. Act like you've been making this all your life. Sometimes mojo begins with an illusion.

I begin with half of a serrano and half of a jalapeno. I then set aside some of the salsa and add the additional jalapeno and serrano, making a "spicy" bowl for my husband and son. I like mine mild, with extra cilantro.

If you just don't like how it looks, maybe the veggies are not diced fine enough, or whatever, puree the salsa in a blender. The chips don't know the difference!

Make sure you clean that blender well before getting started on the margaritas. When you get into college and beyond, you need more than a Coke to wash this food down.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

SWISH, SWISH....


The Olympic athletes who navigate the snow and glide upon it like magic are a beautiful thing to watch. Also to listen to...the swish, swish sound of skis ripping fresh snow just tingles my senses in a feel-good way, and makes me want to ski.

Until I remember March, 1991 in Aspen, Colorado.

I grew up in California, where you can ride quads in the desert and make a quick trip to the Colorado River, if you like it hot. If camping is your thing, you can explore and reflect under some of the Earth's oldest living trees, and I assure you, the sights and scents of the redwood forest meeting the Pacific Ocean is enough to make you believe in elves, and spend the rest of your life burning ocean and cedar scented candles simultaneously in vain hopes of re-creating the sensory experience. It's very Tolkien. And if you like the ocean, our surf culture is rivaled only by Hawai'i, and our rocky coasts and sandy beaches are as much of a lifestyle as they are a magnificent sight to see.

You can do anything in California, all of our different climates, zones, and landscapes. When I was 20 years old, I had swam, boogie boarded, surfed and sailed my youth away in the Pacific, waterskied in desert lakes, and fished and camped (and learned how to drive a stick shift, incidentally) in the Sierras. I'd done it all but skiing. So I tried it.

To realize in a humiliating way that I, am not, ahem, snow compatible.

First of all, Colorado is a much higher altitude than California, and this unexpected reality hit me after enjoying the local night life in Aspen. My first attempt at skiing was at a place called the Highlands. I went with my girlfriend and her family, all skiers. Skiers for years. I got stuck in a beginning skiers class while my snow bunny girlfriend and her parents rode to the top of some mountain, me waving good-bye to them as they rode up the whatever-you-call-it, looking like a kid saying a reluctant good-bye to their parents on the first day of school.

To my credit, I gave skiing my best shot. I did what the young, suave ski instructor with the Nordic countenance and accent told me to do. I tried to side step on these huge things attached to my feet. I tried to go forward, but only slipped and fell backwards in my black ski pants. I wondered how anyone could have fun doing this nonsense thing called skiing. I got frustrated, so my system, I think, involuntarily sent out detectors to the surrounding environment for any tells of familiarity. I didn't smell and brush fires, nor ocean air. I couldn't pick up the nearby scents of taco shop carne asada burritos, and all at once, we - my psyche and me - realized we were far, far out of our element.

And I threw up. In front of the whole beginning skier's class and the European ski instructor. I. Got. Sick.

It didn't start a throwing-up chain reaction like in Stand by Me or anything, but I threw up on the white snow, and then, and only then, was I able to move on those damn skis like I was supposed to, in the opposite direction of those people and into the bathroom.

My friend and I spent the rest of our Aspen vacation shopping and happy hour-ing. There are many cute little shops, good restaurants and fun bars in Aspen.

Back in California, any day of the week (even pregnant), put me on waterskis and I swish, swish all across the wake and under the sun (slalom!) with ease, have since I was 12 years old. I can even handle the desert heat as long as I am near a body of water with plenty of sunscreen. Camping in the forest is enjoyable enough for me because the world around me looks like a fairy tale, and I usually go with much more experienced campers than myself. (Maybe I can't ski, but I'm not stupid.)

But snow. Snow and skiing represent me out of my element. I admire the Vonns and Mancusos of my country and in this world.

However, I'll take them on in a carne asada fries challenge any day of the week. And because it's food that centers me, I think I could take the gold in even a mile-high altitude.

CARNE ASADA FRIES
this ain't no apres ski food.

1 package frozen french fries, prepared according to package instructions
1 lb. purchased carne asada meat, grilled and cooked through
2 cups shredded cheddar cheese, or Mexican blend cheese
1 cup sour cream
salsa fresca, or your favorite salsa
chopped green onions
diced tomatoes
chopped cilantro
TABASCO!!

Preheat broiler, place fries in an oven-safe dish big enough for the fries, meat, etc.
Top french fries with carne asada. Sprinkle cheese on top.
Put under broiler for 3 minutes, or until cheese melts.
Top with sour cream, salsa, green onions, tomatoes and cilantro.
Tabasco is optional, but, come on. You so need Tabasco on carne asada fries.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS YOU HAVE LOTS OF OPTIONS.

My in-laws have a crazy-productive Meyer lemon tree in their backyard. They ask me if I have any friends that might need lemons, and to please, distribute their surplus around my community so the fruit needn't go to waste. These lemons can cost up to $1 each in stores, even in California where almost everyone has a lemon tree in their yard. This time of year, the extraordinarily juicy Meyer lemons dangle off trees (especially my in-laws, growing things is in their Greek blood*) like grape clusters, and I do the usual - lemonade, lemon shrimp, lemon squares, avgolemono, and frozen cubes of lemon juice in the freezer.

My brother-in-law the other night suggested I make preserved Meyer lemons this year. Poor guy always regrets it when he starts talking to me about food, because I ask question after question until he tells my sister-in-law "Honey, it's time to go."

Home with sick kids today, I have a chance to preserve these beautiful lemons, which are native to China and are a hybrid between lemon and mandarin orange. You have probably seen a recipe call for a Meyer lemon, or felt you were paying extra in a restuarant for a dish that included Meyer lemons. But it's worth the time you take to find them and what you pay to consume them. The flavor is distinct and superior to those waxy, mostly pithy lemons that aren't Meyers.

And finding new things to do with what you have grown in your own backyard (or your in-laws backyard) is thrilling, a home cooking way of reinventing yourself. Second only to the taste of the preserved lemons with some pasta, roasted cauliflower, and shaved Parmesan, or with some fish steamed en papillote, and chopped then tossed into couscous.

My next venture will be Meyer Lemon sorbet. Stay tuned!

PRESERVED LEMONS
Thank you Chef Leo Gianulis for this recipe, for giving me new ideas and putting up with me in general.

2 to 3 (Meyer) lemons
kosher salt
fresh herbs - thyme or rosemary

Cut 4 vertical slits into one lemon and sprinkle kosher salt inside each slit.
Place lemons into a clean Mason jar.
Squeeze a little lemon juice into jar.
Stuff in rosemary or thyme.
Store in a cool, dry place for up to a month.

LEMON OIL
I am hoping my kids do not mistake this finished product for furniture polish.

2 to 3 (Meyer) lemons, sliced
enough extra virgin olive oil to cover lemon slices

Slice lemons and place into a clean Mason jar.
Cover with oil.
Store in a cool, dry place for a week. Check on it after 2 days.

* Paint the bottoms of your lemon trees white. I don't know why exactly, it may have to do with ants, but trust me, you should. My in-laws do it and have some lemons the size of watermelons in addition to the righteous Meyers.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP WITH PASTA BEADS AND WHITE BEANS


"You better use it while you got it, 'cause it ain't gonna last forever." ~ Two Moon Junction

This philosophy doesn't just apply to...youth. Two Moon Junction is one of my favorite movies from the 80s, filled with good one liners.

Use what you've got is an approach I now apply to things like...organic produce about to go bad.

Sitting in the fridge, staring at me at 5:00pm were two green onions, asparagus, and peeled garlic cloves that needed to be used tonight, or be tossed out.

I can't stand doing that. I detest waste as much as undeveloped potential, and when I think about it, they are the same thing. Nothing in this world doesn't have a shelf life. And the kitchen is my stage, baby.

Spring vegetable soup with pasta beads and white beans is what I made for dinner tonight. The kids were occupied with a friend and I had twenty minutes to do my own thing, and I did it at the stove.

Use what you've got, go with what you know, and this Valentine's Day, cuddle up, eat soup, and watch a good love story.

You know what I recommend.

SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP ET AL...
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 large red potato, peeled and diced
6 cups of water
3 tbsp. vegetable boullion
3 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 14.5 oz. can diced tomatoes with their juice
1 bunch of asparagus, ends trimmed* and each stalk cut in half
1/2 cup acini de pepe pasta beads, or orzo
1 14.5 oz. can white beans, slightly strained of juices
juice of 1/2 lemon
optional: schmaltz**

In a soup pot over medium-high heat, add olive oil.
Throw in garlic and sweat for 1-2 minutes, don't let it burn.
Add diced potatoes, mix around in the olive oil and garlic until coated.
Add water and boullion, mix well.
Add thyme, tomatoes, asparagus and pasta.
Bring to a boil.
Boil or aggressively simmer until pasta beads are al dente.
Add beans to soup.
It's done when the pasta tastes like you want it - al dente, or more cooked, about 3 more minutes from adding the beans.
Squeeze in lemon juice.
Remove thyme sprigs before serving.
note: fresh white corn would've been awesome but i didn't have any, luckily, the potato and tomato provided some sweetness.

* to get the ends off asparagus, snap the stalk, and where it breaks, that's the length of the spear you want to eat - discard the bottom end, no matter where it breaks.

** schmaltz: rendered chicken fat. I make my schmaltz by roasting a chicken with butter under the skin and olive oil all over the top with a cut lemon inserted inside it's bum, then straining the pan juices from the pan and freezing the liquid into a freezer baggie or ice cube trays. I then add this super-delicious flavor-packed secret ingredient into all of my soups, stews, sauces, and braises. If the recipe found by clicking on the link above, or my way aren't for you, find a good butcher and ask if you can get it from them.